On the road: Alternative venues in Italy

CAROL SUDHALTER, text and photos

I often travel to Italy to perform, most often in Lombardy, Emilia-Romagna, Rome

and Puglia, and always with local musician friends.

Having lived there in the late 1960s, I am fluent in Italian. Audiences love hearing my explanations in Italian of lyrics to tunes such as “Everything Happens to Me” or “Old Folks,” straining to catch every word as I sing in English. 

Everywhere, I find warm-hearted folks who are a delight to play for. My latest tour was especially nice because we announced my 83rd birthday, and I witnessed a trend toward alternative venues for jazz. Some highlights:

Milan: I arrive at Malpensa on Friday, Dec. 9 at 7 a.m. A friend, Massimo, picks me up and drives me to Baggio. We have coffee at the local bar, Carta da Zucchero. I compliment the attractive 50-ish barista, Valentina, on her necklace.

She tells me she made it. Later I compliment her again, and she gives it to me. We talk briefly about my being a musician, and the whimsical idea of one day giving a concert at her coffee bar.

We drive to the country town of Chignolo Po, outside Milan, where I will stay with pianist Angelo Bifezzi. We eat an other-worldly lunch at a local family trattoria — outrageous dishes like crispy mushroom polenta. 

Saturday we drive to Pizzighetone (Cremona) to play a sextet gig.

Sunday, Angelo and I have a duo gig at an afternoon house party, in a split-level house near his home. 

The landing that houses the piano offers a natural platform stage. Below the short staircase, guests sit and stand in rapt attention.

The acoustics are beyond divine. It’s more of a private party than performance at a “venue,” but having an audience pay attention as though it were a House Concert is indeed special.

Sunday evening, I return to Milan. Monday will be the first of the alternative venues: Atelier del Teatro e Delle Arti, located at Piazza della Repubblica, below ground on a mezzanine floor between the railroad stop and subway stop.

I find a warm welcome, a marvelous acoustic, a spacious, comfortable stage; a gracious host (himself an actor), and long benches filled with a perfect, attentive audience.

After four relaxing days with friends in Rome, on Saturday, Dec. 27 I leave for Puglia. The high-speed trains always thrill me.  My friend and favourite guitarist, Nando Di Modugno, picks me up in Barletta. We arrive home (Bisceglie). I marvel at how his kids have grown and how well they are playing piano (Andre, 17) and accordion (Giuseppe,13); and of course, we go out for pizza.

Two days later I travel to Taranto for my first Puglia gig:  Stazione 37, a spacious, traditional jazz club. From a stage adequate for our organ trio, we play to a full house.

I get a three-day break to enjoy Bisceglie and my host family, and to recover from a nasty stomach virus. The organ trio resumes work January 3, at Frantoio Rosso Ipogeo, an underground, vast, cavernous space once used to make olive oil for lamps.

Proprietor Giuseppe carefully sets out 87 folding chairs. I blink, and they are all filled with eager listeners!! The amazing, wondrous other-world atmosphere, the relics, the chill, feels almost like playing in a catacomb.

The next morning, we drive an hour to Bari, to play at “Libreria Roma”, a bookstore, in the basement! Again chairs are set up, and again every seat is filled. I love playing this close to my audience, and feeling the exchange of energy.

An old friend, Alessandro “Magicomare” Maruccia, lifelong mariner and poet of the sea, has founded a maritime museum (Museo del Mare)  inside the famous Clocktower Building (Torre dell’Orologio) in Piazza Fontana of Taranto’s Citta’ Vecchia!

A long awkward (climb up) over rocky ancient steps, lugging equipment, is difficult. We play to an erudite audience of writers, painters and art lovers that brings to mind Gertrude Stein’s salons. All are privately invited, hence no advertising. Alessandro starts my birthday celebration with a cake at midnight.

An even bigger cake follows on January 5 at the Swing Pub, Molfetta. This is not an alternative venue, but a historic one that has hosted many great players. Proprietor Pino, not to be outdone, prepares a mega-cake with a Charlie Parker solo written in frosting!

I return to Milan for my last night in Italy! Massimo has managed to book me for a debut jazz night at Valentina’s coffee bar, Carta da Zucchero! I wear her necklace.

Both rooms are sold out! Their first-ever night of jazz is a total success, and their tasty, unique, homemade snacks are a success with me! What a fine way to say farewell to my favorite country!